British-Nigerian designer Iniye Tokyo James is at the forefront of the growing African fashion scene, setting the continent on the map and gaining attention for local production and traditional design techniques. Landing on this season’s Milan Fashion Week schedule, Tokyo James‘ time slot was busy and welcomed global clients excited to witness his latest offerings.
Set in an antiquated wooden playground, the designer’s Fall/Winter 2023 showcase touched on the distinct facades that people wear to adhere to society’s standards. Titled “Code Switch,” the collection was dominated by vegan designs, handmade creations, and plenty of zippered detailing — signifying that sometimes it’s best to remain silent while other occasions require you to speak up.
For FW23, Tokyo James embraced recycled practices by delivering vegan leather ensembles accented with motorbike detailing and dangling zippers. Patchwork coats, jackets, and vests designed by James’ sister Esther were supplied with distressed edges and broken collars that allowed for multiple styling options. Form-fitting military jackets firmly walked down the runway with a conservative identity, featuring silver badges that mirrored pins from the armed forces.
Upcycled shearling denim jackets were matched with different tones of purple, while some utilized vegan leather detailing for a restless look. Models strolled together, boasting eerie grins and smudged lipstick that tinted their teeth, enlisting friends and family to grace the stage. South African-made knitwear displayed “TJ” initials in a dated gothic font, working alongside slouchy suiting blasted with names of different Lagos suburbs. The collection was rounded out with James’ all-new collaboration with Dr. Martens, previewing distressed versions of classic low-top silhouettes hit with grimy elements taken from outside his studio.
Take a closer look at Tokyo James’ FW23 collection above.
In other news, Ferragamo FW23 proves that Maximilian Davis is ahead of his time.
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